Yes, you need a Honda Motor on the pressure washer it is quieter and more reliable. We have tried and used every single possible variation believe me. We keep going back to Honda. I wish an American Company would produce such a reliable machine as that. I truly do, however, I must consider down-time issues and efficiency, I have to stay in business and thus, I have to choose reliability.

The American small engine manufacturers need to pony up and compete for that level of reliability and quality. Same with automobiles it is an issue in the US. When choosing other types of equipment for your business it makes sense to consider the choices, just make sure you make sure it has a Honda Motor attached if possible.

Should you consider buying equipment from a company that packages all the equipment and products together? Sure, if they have been at it for a number of years and have a good understanding of the Industry. Could you piece meal your own set up for less money? Sure, although, I imagine that someone in the industry already has a lot of the kinks worked out.

All these are considerations, but do stick with Honda. I certainly hope this article is of interest and that is has propelled thought. The goal is simple; to help you in your quest to be the best in 2007. I thank you for reading my many articles on diverse subjects, which interest you.

Custom Audio Systems: With so much time spent in your truck and out on the road, your entertainment system is probably one of the most important aspects of your vehicle. Music an entertainment is essential for making those long miles go by a little easier. Much of the same technology and innovations that are used for passenger vehicles are available for semi-trucks as well. Now you can enjoy high quality sound no matter where you may travel.

Navigation Systems: When you are traveling from city to city, it can be difficult to find the best route. Traffic issues may require that you leave your current route and find a less crowded alternative. With a professionally installed navigation system, you can be sure that you will find the quickest way to your destination. Time is money when you drive a semi and getting lost simply is not an option. A navigation system allows you to stay on track and prevents costly detours or time wasted trying to find gas stations, restaurants, or other places of interest along the way.

Bluetooth Integration: Operating a huge semi is a big responsibility. Taking your hands off of the road for even an instant can have catastrophic results. This is one reason that Bluetooth integration makes sense for truckers. Bluetooth allows you use voice commands to make and receive phone calls as well as to operate your audio and navigation systems.

Window Tinting: You know the feeling of driving down the highway with the sun blaring through the window. The bright sun will not only make you feel hot and uncomfortable, it can obscure your vision as well. Impaired vision from sun glare is responsible for numerous auto accidents each year. Window tint actually reduces glare and makes driving more comfortable. A high quality film with a high heat rejection rate will keep your interior cooler, even during the hottest days of summer.

No matter what kind of customization you want for your truck, be sure to find a qualified specialist who is highly experienced at working on semis. Not everyone has the knowledge or training to properly equip big rigs. Find a company in your area that offers high quality products with excellent customer service.

Getting the Best Aftermarket Parts

If you’re buying aftermarket items online, then you’ll want to research the companies you’re interested in because some companies sell bogus and defective parts. Start by reading reviews of local auto supply websites by customers and look at what they had to say about the quality, customer service and prices of the parts.
Visit the Better Business Bureau’s website and inquire whether any complaints have been filed against this company for bad business practices.
Read auto magazines and Consumer Reports to learn more about what look for.
When you visit stores that sell parts, examine them carefully for defects and if the prices are too low or high, then it could be fraudulent.

Most Purchased Aftermarket Parts

Custom seat covers are among the most purchased aftermarket parts. This is because more people want the latest seat designs and colors for their car seats thanks to TV makeover shows that give cars a new look.
Hubcaps are also popular car accessory, and nowadays you can find hubcaps with diamonds, rhinestones and airbrushed with names or other designs.
Sound systems have become popular aftermarket parts, and there are lots more to choose from than in previous years.

Warranty Issues

Because of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975, an automotive dealer cannot deny warranty service to a customer just because he modified his car with car parts. The dealer has to prove that the car isn’t working because of the installation of these parts. To be on the safe side, have an experienced mechanic install your Aftermarket Parts if you’re not experienced in this type of work.

Learning About Car Design Using After market Parts

If you want to learn more about the latest trends in car design using these parts, read some magazines about auto design and online articles.
Talk to friends who design cars with car accessories and ask which designs would work the best for your style and budget
Read some newspaper articles on auto design and write down addresses of car body shops you see in the articles

Electronic Accessories

Some of the most superb state-of-the-art electronic accessories every car owner can consider include satellite radio receivers, video navigational and positioning systems, MP3 and DVD receivers, rear seat mounted satellite TV screens, and high powered, upscale stereo systems with all the bells and whistles.

Many of these products are costly but they can be financed on credit cards or even at some retail shops who now offer their own in store financing specials. With these devices, you can feel like you’re right at home in the comfort of your own living room in front of your expensive home theater system. While driving, you can keep the kids occupied with the TVs, and you can cruise down the roads listening to spectacular music, all while being expertly directed to any place you need to go.

Performance Accessories

These include high quality suspension and braking products, such as shocks, coil springs and struts, chassis lowering kits, large and lightweight performance rims or wheels, ultra performance tyres, and xenon headlight bulbs. These bulbs light up the night unlike anything that ever came before them. Moreover, they don’t cause any glare to oncoming drivers as the light beam is much more narrow and concentrated.

The suspension kits generate extraordinary amounts of improved handling, and you can even also install engine boosting components that mount either inside the engine, on top of it right under the hood, or towards the rear of the vehicle for massively increased acceleration results. These pricey items include turbochargers, performance headers and manifolds, custom, dual opening exhaust pipes, and power-grabbing carbonite mufflers.

Cosmetic Accessories With cosmetic accessories, you can stylishly dress up your car on the outside to make it look as unique and as highly personalized as you want. These include everything from the latest rage of car eyelashes and acrylic eyeliners, carbon fiber, fibreglass and urethane rear-mounted spoilers, custom Billet grilles, glossy, enamel based paint coatings which make the body gleam and sparkle, tinted windows, custom turn signal lamps, and even stylishly designed roof-mounted ski racks.

As you know with the auto detailing industry you have to do a perfect job on every car. And that requires adequate lighting. It requires real lighting. It’s almost impossible to tell if you did a perfect job on someone’s windows unless you are looking at the window or through the window with actual sunlight. The types of lights that you have or use matter very much. I can tell you this, having been in the franchising business, and having franchised detail shops prior to my retirement; those detail shops which had fluorescent lights, because we didn’t have LED lights back then for these type of industrial applications, had the most complaints.

Customers got their cars back and they noticed a film on the rubber, plastic, rims, windows, or clear coat. It was something that the master detailer or detailing technician did not see. And it wasn’t their fault. In fact, the lighting was all wrong, and they could not see the flaws in their own work. Even though our teams used the best possible products in the auto detailing industry, they still made mistakes due to improper lighting. Now then, fluorescent lights and LED lights are quite different. Neither of those choices are as good as UV lights, and in some cases LED lights may be better than fluorescent, but nothing beats natural sunlight.

One thing I always looked for when our franchises went looking for locations, was for industrial buildings which had skylights because it let in natural light, not only did this save on energy, but it also allowed for better detailing quality. Of course there are days when there is overcast, or when you are working late into the night doing wholesale detailing for a car dealership, an auto auction, or you just can’t finish all the work before dark, because it’s daylight savings time.

What’s the solution you ask? Well it’s important to get the right temperature (note: temperature is a visual lighting term), and there are specific LED lights, and lenses which can help you with this. Before you put in LED lights in your auto detailing shop to save energy, make sure you get with someone that really knows lighting, and all the applications. Make sure they have a good understanding about the science of lighting; because it does matter. Trust me on this. Indeed I hope you will please consider all this and think on it.

The typical tuning modifications will include an induction kit, fast road cam, sports catalyst, sports exhaust, fuelling upgrades and custom headers. To get the best tuning results, you must choose forced induction cars because they are over engineered already and with a remap you could raise the torque and bhp from about a third to half more with diesel engines getting slightly less power gains as compared to petrol.

People who are concerned about getting better performance from their car can choose car tuning. Following these methods can make significant power gains on quite normal cars very easily. There are several performance tuning components available, but some of these give only aesthetic benefits. A louder engine might not necessarily suggest that a car has more power. However, many racers ignore this fact.

The turbo and supercharger are a smart way to force in more air. It is also called forced air induction. You may feel it is an easy task to achieve this, but it is surely not as simple as it appears.

This is because a typical engine will blow up if it is turbo charged suddenly. The engine’s compression ratios would be lowered through stroking the engine. Besides this, the ignition timing and fuel supply ratio would also require alteration when considering the new characteristics of air flow in turbo charged engines.

Enhancing the stopping power and handling of a car is also equally important. It really helps in unpredictable situations. Tuned cars have the tendency to build more speed prior to hitting the corners. Due to this, braking is very important for finishing a fast lap. Heavy braking generates more heat and spec brakes from standard manufacturers start to fail when heat increases.

For stopping a car in emergency situations, big brake conversions are necessary. A remap would advance the engine timings and provide greater power and sharper acceleration. Many people make mistakes while tuning cars and a specialist should be consulted for getting the best results.

Sure enough, we tend to purchase these set of amazing rims for reason that we want our cars to really stand out and gives us the best performance ever. That’s cool right? I know because I’m one of those who love it. Aesthetic reasons are just one of the great perks for such rims. It’s expensive though but the money is certainly worth it.

Some of the wonderful advantages that we can get from this set of wheels well aside from its beautification reasons are the following: First and foremost it yields a reduced in unsprung weight compared to the original steel wheels. This is because it is made of alloy which is much lighter than stock or steel wheels and it allows suspension to follow the terrain more closely thereby improving its grip. Thus your car delivers an exceptional performance you can imagine.

Another good thing from it is that it gives better acceleration and braking. This is because alloy wheels are a good conductor of heat. What happens is that it disperses heat from the brakes resulting in a higher brake performance especially in a demanding driving condition. It reduces the chance of brake failure that is cause by overheating. It increases brake cooling because certain wheels are created to have an open design which allows air to flow over the brakes thus causing the brakes to cool while you’re driving.

It gives added rigidity. Because it is lightweight, this rim gives you a smooth ride. It reduces tire deflection and tire rollover while cornering. Moreover this wheel is more durable than original stock wheels. So basically these are just a few of the many wonderful benefits we can get from this rims. Just keep in mind though that it’s your duty to look for high-quality custom tires to give you a better performance.

Find and research. These are what you need to do before you buy. Be mindful because a lot of bogus businesses are there in the internet. Ask for someone who has bought a set of CH wheels. A referral is really great because you know you are dealing with reputable and trusted manufacturer and distributor.

Your Dealership Division should wash for some of the biggest and best in the industry; names like: ADT, Bessmer, AMCI, Lithia, Internet Car Sales, Car Max, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Harley Davidson, Auto Nation, Bayliner, Freightliner, International, John Deere, New Holland, CAT, GM, Selectruck, Peterbilt, and more.

How is this possible?

Our company uses Isuzu trucks. These trucks have the same turning radius as the Ford Escort Wagon, a 13,500 GVW, and can carry up to 1,000 gallons of water. A crew of 10 can work off one truck with a maximum capacity of 1,000 feet of pressure hose.

http://www.isuzucv.com/businessuses/moreuses5.html

By using non-marring hose you will not scratch the surfaces of cars or special dealership flooring. Your crews can also work at night by installing special million candle watt lights. Another custom feature you can incorporate is a dual 360 swivel hose reels. Your competitors will not have this feature and drag their hoses over the hoods of new cars, causing damage to the other vehicles, thus giving away work to your dealership washing division.

In order to provide the best car wash possible, we use reverse osmosis R/O water, no de-ionized and you should too. Your competitors may use de-ionized and occasionally run the C&W tanks out of capacity, thus discharging acid concentrated water onto new dealership units and etching windows and permanently damaging clear-coats. Some mobile car wash companies average 700 cars per day per truck and need additional de-ionized tanks on board. Washing cars on car lots is very hard work. There are over 1.6 million cars on car lots for sale in the U.S. at any one time, and that’s just new cars. It’s all about logistics, teamwork, and attitude. If you have that and can implement new car dealership lot washing you are good to go. Think about it?

To Prime or Not to Prime?

The short answer to this question is always use the proper primer system whenever you can afford to do so. Most car owners are unaware of the process of finishing a car to a “class A” finish. The first step to ensuring a quality paint job that lasts is the proper selection and use of a primer. Primer is a broad category encompassing anti-corrosive primers which prevent metal surfaces from corroding, primer surfacers which fill small dings, dents and scratches, primer sealers which seal off undercoats in preparation for applying color coats, and adhesion primers whose primary function is to ensure adhesion to a particular surface. This may seem overwhelming to the beginner but bear in mind that not all of those types of primers are always required and many primer products will function in multiple roles. We’ll give more detail on which primers are best in our next section. If you are on a really tight budget and your paint is in pretty good condition (no cracking, peeling, severe gloss loss, fading etc) then primer may not be necessary. However, you should check with the manufacturer of the paint brand you select to confirm they recommend use without a primer.

What kind of primer should I buy?

As we discussed in the previous section there are a lot of primer options available. Choosing the right primer is depends on the condition of your vehicle but we’ll do our best to distill it down to a few of the best options. If you have any bare metal on your vehicle we strongly recommend a 2K (2 part) epoxy primer. Epoxy primer is the best for adhesion to metal and providing corrosion resistance. It’s likely you don’t have bare metal on your car to begin with but part of the refinishing process typically would involve sanding areas smooth and applying body filler as needed which will likely expose some bare metal. Often only a quart or two is needed to spot prime areas where bare metal is exposed. However, serious restoration projects often involve priming the entire vehicle with epoxy primer as added insurance for corrosion resistance and adhesion. On areas where there is a lot of small dings, scratches or body filler it’s a good idea to use a 2K (two part) urethane primer surfacer. Urethane primers typically offer better filling and sanding than epoxy primer so a combination of epoxy primer for the adhesion and corrosion to metal followed by a good urethane primer for filling and sanding is the perfect “one two punch” for preparing your vehicle for painting. If your vehicle is in pretty good shape already, (meaning it doesn’t have a lot of dings, scratches, flaking etc), a 2K urethane sealer is a great option for providing a good foundation for your color coats. Some paint manufacturers offer urethane sealer in a wide range of colors so you can match the color of your primer closer to the color of your final finish. Matching the color of your primer closer to the color of your final finish reduces the amount of color coats (usually the most expensive part) needed and when those inevitable stone chips or scratches happen they are less visible over a color keyed primer than over just a typical grey primer in most cases. For primer selection we generally recommend avoiding lacquer type primers, aerosol or spray bomb primers, and enamel primers due to potential issues with recoatability, and durability long term.

What kind of color coat should I use?

There are a lot of color coat options available to auto paint refinishers today with varying performance and costs. Knowing the durability, appearance performance, and general cost of these various types of product I would highly recommend either purchasing a 2K (2 part) urethane single stage topcoat or, preferentially, a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system. A urethane single stage is a product that provides both the color of your finish and the gloss sheen in one product while a basecoat/clearcoat system consists of a color layer (the basecoat) and an additional layer (called clearcoat) to provide the final gloss appearance. It may appear the urethane single stage is the obvious route because it requires only one product to achieve both gloss and color, however, despite the added cost and extra steps, a vast majority of all cars rolling off assembly lines today are painted with a basecoat/clearcoat process. Basecoat/Clearcoat offers enhanced metallic and pearlescent application and effect and generally last longer than single stage finishes. Early in the finish life cycle basecoat/clearcoat and single stage finishes may have similar appearance but as time goes on the basecoat/clearcoat finish will require less maintenance (ie waxing and detailing) to maintain the high gloss finish. Costs are higher for a base/clear system versus a single stage system but the overall service life improvements will reduce maintenance cost and likely preserve a greater resale value for your vehicle. Savvy shoppers are finding deals online for basecoar/clearcoat kits that are comparable or even less in cost than many single stage finishes.

Your New Car Stereo:
When you decide on what car stereo you want to install in your car, take the time to ensure that it will fit into your car. Some cars will only accept a “Single DIN” car stereo, meaning it will only accept the standard rectangular size. Others will accept up to a 1.5 DIN, 2 DIN, 2.5 DIN, etc… If your car will only accept up to 1.5 DIN, you must choose a single or 1.5 DIN stereo.

In-Dash Receiver Kit:
This is a kit that will allow your dash to physically secure your new Stereo. Many older cars will use a universal kit, but any car that has A/C controls built into the stereo face, a trim piece that acts as the face, or an opening that is not square or rectangle, you will need a kit that is specifically customized for your car. A note of caution here, there are many manufacturers of kits out there. You can find kits for the same car that look the same ranging in price from $10-$50.

In many cases the cheaper kits do not fit as securely allowing the stereo to move around as you drive or do not allow the stereo to fit all the way into the dash as it should. In either case you are risking damage to the stereo, dash, or other equipment behind the dash. This can cause more expense than the Stereo originally cost in repair bills. I suggest ordering a kit from a trusted source such as Crutchfield or JC Whitney or picking one up at a local reputable car stereo shop. Most from discount stores you should stay away from. There are exceptions but unless you know the difference, it is safer to stay away from them.

Wiring Harness Adapter:
In most cars there is a simple harness with 1-3 plugs that the back of your stereo. This harness contains all of the speaker, light dimming, power wires and sometimes other accessory inputs you need for your stereo connections. The adapter contains the proper connection for your new stereo to plug into this harness. If you opt out of purchasing this adapter, you will have to cut the connectors off of your car’s harness and hard wire your stereo into the wiring. In my opinion, the adapter is well worth the price. It allows you to return the car to the stock radio at any time if you ever wish to. In some cases, this adapter will be included in the In-Dash Receiver Kit.

Car Stereo Installation Tool Kit:
You can buy these as a kit or the components separately. The first thing you will need is an interior trim tool kit. These kits allow you to remove the interior trim pieces without breaking them. They come in either metal or plastic tools. The metal are easier to use, but the plastic will not scratch your pieces. The next tool you will need is a tool to remove the old Stereo. Most cars will require a DIN tool, check to see what tool your car requires before purchasing. Without a DIN tool, you aren’t going to be able to pull your original head unit out. Next you will need a basic electrical kit. This should include a multimeter, wire strippers and crimpers, splicing connectors, and electrical tape. In some cases you will also need screwdrivers and pliers as well. All of these tool kit pieces will also be used to install speakers, amplifiers, or any other additional custom electronic accessories you wish to install in your car, so they are not a 1 time usage tool.

Parts Bins:
Using a “Parts Bin” is a highly recommended step. One of the hardest things to keep track of is each different fastener, bolt, and nut. Keeping them all in a bin is an easy way to ensure you do not lose any. When possible I like to take this one step farther and each trim piece has its own bin with its own fasteners. This way there is no question on what fastener goes with what part.

Time:
Be sure to give yourself a few hours to complete your installation. Actual installation time will vary by each individual car, each individual stereo and the experience of the installer. If you do not give yourself enough time to complete the installation, you will find yourself rushed to finish. This is where errors happen. You should always allow yourself enough time to “take it slow”. In most cases you will not need a few hours to install, but you will want to take the time once completed to test your new stereo, setup the clock, EQ settings and other options that it has, doing this right away will help enhance the listening experience later.

Installation Environment:
This is a preparation step that many overlook. Where are you going to do the installation at? When are you going to do the installation? What is the temperature? How is the lighting? These are all important preparation questions. Most people will not have access to a cooled/heated garage with tons of lighting to perform their installation. They will be performing it at home. If you live in an apartment, you have an additional concern. In many cases apartments have a “No working on cars” clause in the lease agreement.

This means you can actually be forced to stop after you have begun. Find out from your apartment office before you begin if you can work on the stereo. What time of day/time of year are you going to do the installation? If it is in the summer where it is 100F you will be very hot and sweaty. After a while you will want to be done and begin to rush things. If you do not have access to a climate controlled garage, try to find a shady area with a fan to blow air on you, or a portable heater to heat the area around you. Having a small drop light that you can position in the car with you helps more than most expect, even if you are out in the bright sunlight, there are a lot of shaded areas inside the car dash.

Part 2: Installing your Car Stereo
The most common customization that many people put in their car is a new car stereo. Most will have their car stereo professionally installed spending up to hundreds more on top of the cost of the stereo. For many, though, the added cost of installation means that they cannot get the stereo that they want at this time. Installing your own car stereo can save you a lot of money, and you can make it look just as nice as a professional installation. All you need is a couple of tools, a few parts, and a little time. Now that you have completed your preparations you are ready to begin the installation.

Disconnect the Battery:
Disconnect your NEGATIVE battery cable. This step is necessary to ensure that you do not cause any damage to your new stereo or to the battery from surges while you are working.

Remove the Trim Pieces from your Cars Dash:
Using your Trim tools, gently remove all required Trim Pieces from your cars dash to expose the original car stereo. Your In-Dash receiver kit often times will have instructions on what pieces you need to remove. Check these instructions for any guidance. Ensure you keep all fasteners and trim pieces organized. Using a parts bin or other dedicated storage location that is not easily knocked over and not in the way while you are working. It may seem like an unnecessary step for many pieces but I have spent hours looking for a lost clip or had to go to the dealership to purchase a damaged piece. In either case, that extra minute proved to be so valuable.

Remove the Car Stereo:
Using your DIN tool (or other specific tool), remove the original car stereo. There are holes on the sides for you to insert the tools into. Once you have them inserted, pull outwards (to the left and right) on the tool. Gently, but firmly begin to pull the original car stereo out. When the old stereo begins to slide out, grab the sides of the stereo and continue to pull it all of the way out while supporting it. Do not just yank it out. Bring it out slowly until it is completely free. Once you have it completely out, unplug all of the connections and set your old stereo to the side.

Install Your In-Dash Receiver Kit:
Read the instructions carefully and fully before you begin. This step is very critical in maintaining a professional look for the installation. Use the trim removal tools to disassemble any additional trim pieces that are required that have not yet been removed. Following the directions, install the In-Dash Receiver Kit. Your new pieces should align and snap in easily. If they do not, take the time to find out why they do not and correct the issue. For any kit that requires tightening nuts or bolts to mount, be sure you do not over torque these as this can cause damage to your pieces and cause alignment issues.

Install Mounting Sleeve:
The Mounting Sleeve is part of the In-Dash Receiver Kit or part of the new Stereo. In some cases you will have one with the stereo and one with the kit. It is always best to compare the 2 and decide which one will fit the stereo the most securely and will fit the kit most securely. This sleeve is generally a metal cage that the new stereo will actually mount to. Install the sleeve to the kit. Ensure the kit and the sleeve are secure to each other and to the cars dash. If either piece is loose or not square, adjust each until both are correct.

Install Wiring Harness Adapters:
Now that the Car is prepped for the new stereo, now is the time to begin the Stereo Preparation. Remove the Stereo from the packaging and locate the wire harness for it. Some stereos will have this permanently attached while others will have it a separate plug. In either case you need to attach the wires from the Wiring Harness adapter to the wires from the stereo. In most cases the wires will use a standard color system so it may be just as easy as matching the colors. Take the time to double check each wire. This is not a step to shortcut or to use the wrong items. Use Wire connectors for each wire. Do not just twist together and tape. If you do the best you can hope for is less than optimum audio quality, worst is you can start an electrical fire under your dash. Use the proper wire connectors and heat shrink (tubing that shrinks when you heat it) to seal the connections.

Install Your New Stereo:
Now you are ready to connect your new Stereo to the cars wire harness. Plug the Wiring harness adapter into the harness you unplugged from the original stereo and into the new stereo if it is not already attached. You should have enough wire to set your stereo down somewhere nearby. Reconnect your Battery contact and tighten it down tight. Loose battery connections are one of the leading causes of electrical issues in cars.

Test Your New Stereo:
At this point everything should be connected back together with the radio connected but not in the dash. Turn on the radio and make sure all the speakers work and any other supported items work, such as dimming the display when the lights are on. Once the testing is complete, turn the key off and slide the new stereo into the Mounting Sleeve in the dash. Be sure to tuck the wires into the dash as you do this. The stereo should slide in easily without binding. If you have any binding, pull it back out and check the reason for the binding. When fully seated, the stereo will lock to the mounting sleeve and be secure.